Showing posts with label Europe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Europe. Show all posts

Thursday, July 18, 2013

Barcelona: End of the Eurotrip

My morning flight was a bit too early for me to take advantage of the free breakfast at the hotel.  In another couple of hours on a cramped flight I was in Barcelona.  Finally after arriving in Barcelona, I got the chance to break out the shorts and sunglasses, a welcomed change from the moderately kind of cold hoodie weather that I had in the rest of Europe.  I don’t know much Spanish, but I knew enough to help me get around quite a bit which made navigating around the city a bit easier based on how much of the language I do understand.

Inside the room at Barcelona Hilton
I took a bus out to where I would take the train from.  I had downloaded all of my directions in advance to make things easier.  I bought a 2 day pass for the train, but in hindsight a 10 trip pass would have been cheaper and gotten me through my entire visit.  My hotel for my trip in Barcelona would be the Hilton Barcelona.  The directions to get there were pretty simple.  A bus ride, then a train ride and then it was a short walk to the hotel.

It proved to be slightly more complicated than I imagined as I walked back and forth past the hotel several times.   It only had a couple of blue Hilton flags to identify it that were recessed a bit from the actual street.  I felt a little silly when I finally found it.  I went to the front desk to check in and I was behind probably the most annoying person in the world go get behind for checking in.  I waited in line for about 20 minutes in order to check in.  When I finally checked in I was offered the choice of a room on the third floor or waiting for a room on a higher floor.  I just wanted to check in so I opted for the lower floor.

Pan Con Tomate
This hotel has that numbering system where even numbers are on one side in one hallway and odd numbered rooms are on the other side.  I didn’t notice this when I first got off of the elevator and it lead to few more seconds of aimless wandering.  Once I made it into the room I turned on the TV to watch a little bit while I freshened up and as I was changing channels I came across that iconic scene from Back to the Future where Marty is playing the guitar at the dance.   Instantly I was like this is freaking awesome.  Then came in the weirdness of audio dubbed over in Spanish that made an otherwise perfect moment a little bit more memorable.

I was starving so I decided to get something to eat right next door at Piscolabis.  It is a tapas restaurant right next door to the hotel so I didn’t have to wander far.  The menu is quite large but most of what I wanted to try was absent from the menu.  I couldn’t complain too much because it was pretty early on a Sunday.  He also suggested pretty good replacements.  I mean you can’t really complain that much when you are selecting from over 60 dishes.

Tapas at Piscolabis
I had the pan con tomate.  It was simple, but you really get the freshness of the tomatoes.  It’s only charred bread that it is rubbed with tomatoes.  I know you might be thinking “what’s so great about that?”  It’s because the tomatoes have such a vibrant flavor of tomatoes.  It’s almost like eating a tomato for the first time.   The bread is perfect too.  It is very light and chewy and has this really crisp crust.

Next up I got a chance to try the ham croquettes.  They were made with the gold standard of ham.  Iberico ham comes from black Iberian pigs, which are fed a diet which is mostly acorns.  This renders a fat that has much higher HDL and lower LDL.  It also gives the ham a very rich flavor.  Being from Miami, and ham croquettes being a staple of Cuban cuisine, I’ve had much more than my fair share of ham croquettes over the years.   These were however the best that I’ve ever had.  The quality of the ham goes a long way and the fatty nature of it gives you a croquette that is most and crisp on the outside.

The richness of the food I had didn’t stop there as I ended up getting the foie gras cannelloni as well.  It was an absolute triumph as the pasta was cooked absolutely perfectly.   It also had this great rich sauce that was slightly earthy.  I also had the vegetable tempura with romesco sauce.  My favorite this array of fired vegetables was the asparagus.  The light batter that only a tempura can provide was perfect for it.  The romseco brought in the brightness of the sweet ripe tomatoes that are throughout Europe.  European tomatoes are better than any I’ve ever had in the US.
Barcelona's Beautiful Beach

I then made my way to the beach it was an absolutely beautiful day outside as well.  Up until this point I thought that South Beach was the most beautiful beach in the world.  That isn’t even close to true Platja de la Barceloneta is phenomenal.  This is coming from a person that usually doesn’t like beaches as well.   The weather was absolutely perfect.  The sand wasn’t hot at all.  It was just warm enough to entice you to get into the water but not too warm as to make it a requirement.  The beach was also pretty crowded but not to the point where it makes you feel uncomfortable.

I sat down on the beach and got some more tapas and a beer from Platja Ca La Nuri.  I was really just sitting along the beach when a waiter walked up with a menu.  I only had one item actually.  I decided to go for the Pommes de terre épicées.  They were potatoes with a spicy aioli.  They were perfectly crisp on the outside yet tender.  The aioli was spicy enough but not too hot to be overpowering.

Plaça de la Sagrada Família
Later on I went for a drink at Zian.  I decided to go with the Sangria.  Sangria is not something I usually ordered, but after tasting this I was hooked.   There was a bit of language barrier as I didn’t really understand what I was ordering but for €6 I got an entire pitcher of Sangria.  I didn’t feel bad leaving some it behind as I felt pretty tipsy after a few glasses.

After going to sleep pretty early in the evening I woke up to do some more sightseeing.  Here’s the synopsis.  I went to see the Plaça de la Sagrada Família.  It was a church.  Looked nice from the outside, the line to get in was long so I passed on it.  Went to Casa Museu Gaudí, It was a small museum.  Felt like a bit of a rip-off.  I was done with it in about 10 minutes and €10 poorer for the effort.  Park Güell was nice, but it was so crowded with people trying to take pictures that I was getting more annoyed than anything.  All these things essentially made me wish I was still at the beach.

Park Güell
I stopped for lunch at Narin.  It was a pretty awesome place that serves Middle Eastern food.  I ended up having a falafel pita and a beer for only €5.  The falafel was fresh fried for me and was crisp and it definitely wasn’t one of those that are kept alive via a heat lamp that you can get at some places.  Here you had a perfect little bite that was fulfilling and the fresh herbaceous qualities shine through.

I got sucked into Tallers 76 next door to soak up some free Wi-Fi.  The service was pretty friendly there despite the obvious language barrier, but I do know the words “pan con tomate” and “sangria” which was all I needed to make it through.

Tapas and Cava on the Beach
Soon after I was walking down Avenida Diagonal passing by various places where I could do some serious shopping if I so desired.  The pricing was borderline absurd, so I did more looking than anything.  Insane to think but I saw a pair of Levi’s at €120.  It has to be a result of all of the import taxes.  At any rate my bags were near full and I didn’t want to spend too much more money.

My next sightseeing spot was Casa Mila.  All of the sightseeing in Barcelona seems to revolve around the beach or Antoni Gaudi.  Here there was another line to get in that was very long and for €16 to get in I felt like my pictures from the outside were good enough.  I had to get back to the beach.   After seeing so much by Gaudi, I couldn’t justify the expense, not only in price but more importantly in time.

The best picture of the trip
I got back to the beach again and sat down and had the spicy potatoes again.  I would enjoy a glass of Cava with it as well.  It was more of a triumph, more of a celebration than a meal.  The sparkling wine garnished with a strawberry and the perfect view made for an amazing day.  I also tried the anchovies, which I wasn’t particularly a fan of.  You could definitely taste the freshness of the fish, but it was more the choice of the very sharp vinegar seasoning that made it unbearable for me.

After going back to the hotel to freshen up, I went out for dinner at La Rita.  It was upscale food for a price that wasn’t too expensive.  I felt a bit underdressed in my T-shirt and jeans as it definitely was a white tablecloth restaurant.  I was conflicted about what to order, and though I really enjoyed my Iberian pork filet, I kind of wish I would have gone for the duck.  It was good but not great.  It was from the loin which is a tough piece to cook, and it came back just slightly dry and tough.  The sweet wine sauce with the tomatoes kept the dish bearable.

The star of the show was the dessert.  It was yet another fantastic one that played the borders of sweetness perfectly.  It was a mango soup with pink peppercorns that added a little bit of kick to it.  It was a dish that executed a perfect balance of sweetness and tartness.  The pink peppercorns danced on the edge of your tongue and made you want more.

In the morning I suffered from the age old flight problem.  My preferred time to fly is about 11 am, if I am away from home.  This way you don’t have to wake up early, and it gives you just enough time to get some breakfast and make it to the airport.  If it is much later when you travel you run into the problem of doing what I did in my last day in Barcelona, which was goofing off for a bit while not doing much of anything because I wanted to be on time for my flight back to London.  To make matters worse, I found out that my flight to London was into Gatwick and not into Heathrow.

I wanted to make my way back to the hotel relatively quickly and I didn’t want to spend much time traveling.  A taxi seemed like the best option.  In hindsight, I would have probably endured taking the Tube.  The taxi did save me an hour and a half over the fasted time that I researched through public transportation, but it did cost me a bit of money that was so staggering that I am a bit ashamed to admit it.

I stayed the night at the Heathrow Doubletree.  This happened to be the second hotel that does that annoying false sense of security thing by making you use a key to get on the elevator.  I only went to my room once so it didn’t bother me at all.  For dinner I ended up getting room service.   I finally got a chance to try curry in London at this point.  I had been looking forward to some good Indian food throughout my trip due to the English fascination with Indian food, I was expecting a really good version of Chicken Tikka Masala.  This one didn’t disappoint at all.  It was one of those moments where the only thing to complain of was the small portion size.  My foursquare check-in turned out to be extremely helpful as the top tip said to take the bus that picks you up on the side of the road rather than the hotel shuttle.   It does save you about £3 and comes a lot quicker than the hotel shuttle.  Once I figured out which direction to go I was on my way pretty quickly.







My morning flight was a bit too early for me to take advantage of the free breakfast at the hotel.  In another couple of hours on a cramped flight I was in Barcelona.  Finally after arriving in Barcelona, I got the chance to break out the shorts and sunglasses, a welcomed change from the moderately kind of cold hoodie weather that I had in the rest of Europe.  I don’t know much Spanish, but I knew enough to help me get around quite a bit which made navigating around the city a bit easier based on how much of the language I do understand.
I took a bus out to where I would take the train from.  I had downloaded all of my directions in advance to make things easier.  I bought a 2 day pass for the train, but in hindsight a 10 trip pass would have been cheaper and gotten me through my entire visit.  My hotel for my trip in Barcelona would be the Hilton Barcelona.  The directions to get there were pretty simple.  A bus ride, then a train ride and then it was a short walk to the hotel.
It proved to be slightly more complicated than I imagined as I walked back and forth past the hotel several times.   It only had a couple of blue Hilton flags to identify it that were recessed a bit from the actual street.  I felt a little silly when I finally found it.  I went to the front desk to check in and I was behind probably the most annoying person in the world go get behind for checking in.  I waited in line for about 20 minutes in order to check in.  When I finally checked in I was offered the choice of a room on the third floor or waiting for a room on a higher floor.  I just wanted to check in so I opted for the lower floor.
This hotel has that numbering system where even numbers are on one side in one hallway and odd numbered rooms are on the other side.  I didn’t notice this when I first got off of the elevator and it lead to few more seconds of aimless wandering.  Once I made it into the room I turned on the TV to watch a little bit while I freshened up and as I was changing channels I came across that iconic scene from Back to the Future where Marty is playing the guitar at the dance.   Instantly I was like this is freaking awesome.  Then came in the weirdness of audio dubbed over in Spanish that made an otherwise perfect moment a little bit more memorable.
I was starving so I decided to get something to eat right next door at Piscolabis.  It is a tapas restaurant right next door to the hotel so I didn’t have to wander far.  The menu is quite large but most of what I wanted to try was absent from the menu.  I couldn’t complain too much because it was pretty early on a Sunday.  He also suggested pretty good replacements.  I mean you can’t really complain that much when you are selecting from over 60 dishes.
I had the pan con tomate.  It was simple, but you really get the freshness of the tomatoes.  It’s only charred bread that it is rubbed with tomatoes.  I know you might be thinking “what’s so great about that?”  It’s because the tomatoes have such a vibrant flavor of tomatoes.  It’s almost like eating a tomato for the first time.   The bread is perfect too.  It is very light and chewy and has this really crisp crust.
Next up I got a chance to try the ham croquettes.  They were made with the gold standard of ham.  Iberico ham comes from black Iberian pigs, which are fed a diet which is mostly acorns.  This renders a fat that has much higher HDL and lower LDL.  It also gives the ham a very rich flavor.  Being from Miami, and ham croquettes being a staple of Cuban cuisine, I’ve had much more than my fair share of ham croquettes over the years.   These were however the best that I’ve ever had.  The quality of the ham goes a long way and the fatty nature of it gives you a croquette that is most and crisp on the outside.
The richness of the food I had didn’t stop there as I ended up getting the foie gras cannelloni as well.  It was an absolute triumph as the pasta was cooked absolutely perfectly.   It also had this great rich sauce that was slightly earthy.  I also had the vegetable tempura with romesco sauce.  My favorite this array of fired vegetables was the asparagus.  The light batter that only a tempura can provide was perfect for it.  The romseco brought in the brightness of the sweet ripe tomatoes that are throughout Europe.  European tomatoes are better than any I’ve ever had in the US.
I then made my way to the beach it was an absolutely beautiful day outside as well.  Up until this point I thought that South Beach was the most beautiful beach in the world.  That isn’t even close to true Platja de la Barceloneta is phenomenal.  This is coming from a person that usually doesn’t like beaches as well.   The weather was absolutely perfect.  The sand wasn’t hot at all.  It was just warm enough to entice you to get into the water but not too warm as to make it a requirement.  The beach was also pretty crowded but not to the point where it makes you feel uncomfortable.
I sat down on the beach and got some more tapas and a beer from Platja Ca La Nuri.  I was really just sitting along the beach when a waiter walked up with a menu.  I only had one item actually.  I decided to go for the Pommes de terre épicées.  They were potatoes with a spicy aioli.  They were perfectly crisp on the outside yet tender.  The aioli was spicy enough but not too hot to be overpowering.
Later on I went for a drink at Zian.  I decided to go with the Sangria.  Sangria is not something I usually ordered, but after tasting this I was hooked.   There was a bit of language barrier as I didn’t really understand what I was ordering but for €6 I got an entire pitcher of Sangria.  I didn’t feel bad leaving some it behind as I felt pretty tipsy after a few glasses.
After going to sleep pretty early in the evening I woke up to do some more sightseeing.  Here’s the synopsis.  I went to see the Plaça de la Sagrada Família.  It was a church.  Looked nice from the outside, the line to get in was long so I passed on it.  Went to Casa Museu Gaudí, It was a small museum.  Felt like a bit of a rip-off.  I was done with it in about 10 minutes and €10 poorer for the effort.  Park Güell was nice, but it was so crowded with people trying to take pictures that I was getting more annoyed than anything.  All these things essentially made me wish I was still at the beach.
I stopped for lunch at Narin.  It was a pretty awesome place that serves Middle Eastern food.  I ended up having a falafel pita and a beer for only €5.  The falafel was fresh fried for me and was crisp and it definitely wasn’t one of those that are kept alive via a heat lamp that you can get at some places.  Here you had a perfect little bite that was fulfilling and the fresh herbaceous qualities shine through.
I got sucked into Tallers 76 next door to soak up some free Wi-Fi.  The service was pretty friendly there despite the obvious language barrier, but I do know the words “pan con tomate” and “sangria” which was all I needed to make it through.
Soon after I was walking down Avenida Diagonal passing by various places where I could do some serious shopping if I so desired.  The pricing was borderline absurd, so I did more looking than anything.  Insane to think but I saw a pair of Levi’s at €120.  It has to be a result of all of the import taxes.  At any rate my bags were near full and I didn’t want to spend too much more money.
My next sightseeing spot was Casa Mila.  All of the sightseeing in Barcelona seems to revolve around the beach or Antoni Gaudi.  Here there was another line to get in that was very long and for €16 to get in I felt like my pictures from the outside were good enough.  I had to get back to the beach.   After seeing so much by Gaudi, I couldn’t justify the expense, not only in price but more importantly in time.
I got back to the beach again and sat down and had the spicy potatoes again.  I would enjoy a glass of Cava with it as well.  It was more of a triumph, more of a celebration than a meal.  The sparkling wine garnished with a strawberry and the perfect view made for an amazing day.  I also tried the anchovies, which I wasn’t particularly a fan of.  You could definitely taste the freshness of the fish, but it was more the choice of the very sharp vinegar seasoning that made it unbearable for me.
After going back to the hotel to freshen up, I went out for dinner at La Rita.  It was upscale food for a price that wasn’t too expensive.  I felt a bit underdressed in my T-shirt and jeans as it definitely was a white tablecloth restaurant.  I was conflicted about what to order, and though I really enjoyed my Iberian pork filet, I kind of wish I would have gone for the duck.  It was good but not great.  It was from the loin which is a tough piece to cook, and it came back just slightly dry and tough.  The sweet wine sauce with the tomatoes kept the dish bearable.
The star of the show was the dessert.  It was yet another fantastic one that played the borders of sweetness perfectly.  It was a mango soup with pink peppercorns that added a little bit of kick to it.  It was a dish that executed a perfect balance of sweetness and tartness.  The pink peppercorns danced on the edge of your tongue and made you want more.
In the morning I suffered from the age old flight problem.  My preferred time to fly is about 11 am, if I am away from home.  This way you don’t have to wake up early, and it gives you just enough time to get some breakfast and make it to the airport.  If it is much later when you travel you run into the problem of doing what I did in my last day in Barcelona, which was goofing off for a bit while not doing much of anything because I wanted to be on time for my flight back to London.  To make matters worse, I found out that my flight to London was into Gatwick and not into Heathrow.
I wanted to make my way back to the hotel relatively quickly and I didn’t want to spend much time traveling.  A taxi seemed like the best option.  In hindsight, I would have probably endured taking the Tube.  The taxi did save me an hour and a half over the fasted time that I researched through public transportation, but it did cost me a bit of money that was so staggering that I am a bit ashamed to admit it.
I stayed the night at the Heathrow Doubletree.  This happened to be the second hotel that does that annoying false sense of security thing by making you use a key to get on the elevator.  I only went to my room once so it didn’t bother me at all.  For dinner I ended up getting room service.   I finally got a chance to try curry in London at this point.  I had been looking forward to some good Indian food throughout my trip due to the English fascination with Indian food, I was expecting a really good version of Chicken Tikka Masala.  This one didn’t disappoint at all.  It was one of those moments where the only thing to complain of was the small portion size.  My foursquare check-in turned out to be extremely helpful as the top tip said to take the bus that picks you up on the side of the road rather than the hotel shuttle.   It does save you about £3 and comes a lot quicker than the hotel shuttle.  Once I figured out which direction to go I was on my way pretty quickly.

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Impossible Roma

Flying high to Rome
My flight from Paris to Rome was on the economy airline Veuling.  You can’t argue with the price at all but the seats were so close together.  My knees were in the back of the seat in front of me for the entire plane flight.  This wasn’t like your normal cramped flight.  This was seats that were insanely close together.  I spent the entire flight with my knees in the back of the seat in front of me.  You can't argue with the price though which was insanely cheap.  My three flights were $300 total.

Room at Hilton Garden Inn Airport Rome
I arrived in Rome and made it through customs at around midnight.  By that time I tried to call the hotel several times in order to find out if they had a shuttle and where it picked up from but the phone number on the website was wrong.  In the end I ended up with my first case of being ripped off overseas.  First, there were the people who operated a shuttle that wanted to charge me €30 in order to get a ride.  I recognized that as a bunch of BS and soldiered on.  I looked for a cab and I got tricked by the oldest trick in the book.  The old I’m not going to turn the meter on I’m just going to charge you €15.  It was like a €5 cab ride as well.  Not to mention the fact that we passed by the shuttle on the way to the hotel.   Ah well I didn’t do too badly for being in a foreign country where I don’t speak the language around midnight with a dying cell phone.

Random sight from the taxi while in traffic
I stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn that night.  I checked in and it was rather annoying because you had to use a key in order to access the elevators, a feature that makes some feel safer but to me is just another bit of annoyance between me and getting to my room.  I made it up to my room alright and it was very comfortable.  I soon discovered that I ended up leaving my laptop power cord along with the crazy new adapter I bought behind in Paris.  It was the biggest goof I made of the trip.  On the plus side, I did have an extra cord at home, and my laptop would be good for limited use until I made it back to the US.

Inside the Vatican
I started off my morning with breakfast in the hotel as I had done every day on the trip I woke up early enough to do so.  One of the things I really missed about the US is the way that bacon was cooked.  The bacon in the UK wasn’t cooked to that nice crispiness that I get back at home.  Breakfast in particular was one of the dishes that made me miss home.

I took a shuttle to the airport to take a train into Rome.  When I got there I only had moments before the train left.  I didn’t get to buy a ticket before the train left and I would have to wait thirty minutes.  I totally thought that there was only one train and I definitely took the wrong one.  It was an episode of me blatantly not paying attention.  I got out of the train and took a taxi the rest of the way for €20.  I had lost patience at that point.

Hilton Garden Inn Rome City Center
I checked into the Hilton Garden Inn Rome.   It was a nice hotel in the center of the city.  The one thing that was apparent was that the elevators were absurdly small.  There was just enough room for me and my bags inside of the elevator and my head was inches from the ceiling.  The great thing about the hotel was that they gave you directions to all of the sights that you might want to see on the trip.

Rome is not that difficult of a city to navigate because every time you wonder where you are you can look up and in you’re like oh that’s the coliseum, I need to go that way.  The historical landmarks really help you to gain your bearing.  I unfortunately made the mistake of getting on the tram in the wrong direction the first time I rode it.  It cost me quite a bit of time, but I took a bunch of pictures of the city along the way.

One of a few hundred pictures I took in Vatican Musem
As I walked towards the Vatican, I reached peak hunger and quickly stopped in a pizzeria along the way.  The pizza in Rome has a very thin crust that I find delightful.  It is pretty crisp and light but somehow has enough strength to support an abundance of cheese and toppings.  My particular piece of pizza had mushrooms and sausage.  They had to be some of the best mushrooms I’ve ever tasted before.  I wish I would have taken note of the place, but I was kind of in a hurry and I just walked in grabbed a slice and walked out.  It was a great value for only €5.  There are plenty of pizzerias along the way to the Vatican though.


I finally made it to the Vatican Museum and made it through the line relatively quickly.  I only waited to get in for about 15 minutes which is really shorter than how long that I heard that it would take to get in.  The amount of artwork that is in the museum is amazing and it is pretty massive.  I spent about 3 hours walking around and taking tons of pictures.   The unfortunate part was that you could not take pictures inside the Sistine Chapel.   That doesn’t take away from the fact that it is very awe inspiring to be inside of it and I took quite some time looking at the detail of the artwork.  Yeah you pass through many similarly painted rooms, but there is something about the Sistine Chapel that just takes your breath away the moment you walk in.
I left and walked around to try and make my way into Vatican city, but as I was wandering aimlessly, I was told by a couple of cops that I was walking somewhere I wasn’t supposed to be walking despite the fact that I didn’t see any signs or anything blocking my path.  I obliged their yelling at me to hurry along and that’s when I found out that everyone was waiting for the Pope to make his appearance.

Awesome sandwich at Fa Bio
Not being Catholic or otherwise having a huge interest in seeing the Pope, I decided to go get a sandwich instead.  It was an awesome decision.  I went to one of the places from my guide book and ended up heading to Fa Bio.  It is a small little sandwich shop.  I chatted it up with the guy making my sandwich that worked there and he had spent some time in California, which explained his really good English.

 My meal was simple and cheap at the same time.  It was also fresh and very tasty.  I got a sandwich with salami and capicola, some cheese and an olive spread.  The lettuce was dressed in a little bit of olive oil as well.  The simple things are the easiest to mess up, but it would be hard to fail with the quality of the ingredients that were in this sandwich.  When It was initially served to me I thought that the ratio of the thick sliced bread to the very thinly sliced Italian meats would be the downfall of this sandwich as it would fall into the classic sandwich mistake of having too much bread, but one bite taught me differently.  The chewy bread went perfectly with the salty olive tapenade and the little offering of meat was just enough to be satisfying.  I had a tasty Pink Grapefruit soda to wash it down with.

Yummy Cheap Gelato
I went for value again when it came to ordering desert.  I wanted to have gelato, and I went for the gelato.  There is a place right outside of the Vatican, Old Bridge, that had a huge line.  It moved very quickly and I stood in it.  It was well worth the wait.  The price was unbelievable, €2 for a cup that was overflowing with yummy gelato.  I ended up getting pistachio and caramel.  I don’t eat sweets much and I anticipated having a bit left over, but it was so rich and had that perfect balance that was not over sweetened and I end up finishing it all.


For dinner I didn’t want to venture far so I went right next door to the hotel at Il Martello.  They didn’t speak good English there which made for a bit of an interesting time, but I understand Italian food well enough to get my point across and know what I wanted to eat.  I would get a glass of wine that was so huge that it was more like a half bottle almost. 

More Vatican
I decided to go with the bruschetta sampler to start with.  I enjoyed the one that had the olive tapenade the most.  There was also one with tomatoes and garlic.  The tomatoes were so sweet and tasted so much like a real pure tomato.  It was phenomenal.  There was even one that was just bread with extra virgin olive oil.   As simple as it was it was great and didn’t need anything else.  I wanted the gnocchi for an entrée, but they ran out so I went with pasta with clams.  The pasta was very good and cooked perfectly, but I didn’t care for the sauce that much.

Perfect Cappuccino and Pastry
The next morning I wanted to get out to an early start, but it was rainy so I had no problem setting the alarm back a bit and staying inside for a while.  I had a tour scheduled for later in the day, and I had breakfast at the hotel.  I got on the tram for a little bit and ended up getting coffee at Grand Caffe Santos.  The second best value of the trip would have to be all of the coffee shops I visited.  Drinks that were amazingly better than my $4-5 drink at Starbucks came in at about €1.  It almost felt like stealing.

I took the tram to by the Coliseum, I actually got off a stop late.  I wasn’t paying attention really because I thought it would be the last stop and I looked up to see it just as we were passing it.  It worked out in my favor because I got to get a good vantage point to take a really good picture of the Coliseum.  I meet up with the tour group a little bit later. The tour I bought online ahead of time through Real Rome Tours.  Our tour guide was extremely knowledgeable.  It only makes sense because he was an archaeologist who spent his dissertation digging around the Coliseum.  This made for a tour where I got a wealth of interesting information, much of which I have since forgotten.

Colleseo

There was a lot of walking along the way of the tour, the main advantage though was that there was absolutely no waiting in line.  I think it is one of the scams of European sightseeing, if you don’t want to wait in line pay a tour guide a lot of money.  This tour was well worth it though.  We got a chance to go into the upper and lower levels of the Coliseum as well as see some of the other ancient Roman sites like the Roman forum.

The most valuable piece of information that he ended up providing was where to eat dinner.  Nearly everyone from the tour headed over to Massenzio.  It was a pretty good value there as a three course meal was €20.  My only legitimate complaint could be that they were a little slow with their service.  That was a recurring theme throughout nearly every place I visited in Europe though.
Would be brilliant white stone without vehicle pollution

My appetizer there was a plate of spaghetti Bolognese.  This rescued my somewhat diminished opinion of food in Rome.  Our guide said that food in Italy gets better the further south you go.  This spaghetti was so good, that if that was the case I would guess it came from the very tip of the boot.  The deliciousness of the dish was matched only by it’s simplicity.  That perfect taste of the sweet tomatoes combined with the meatiness of the sausage and that awesome pasta that was a perfect al dente.

Next up I had the Veal Saltimbocca. One of my favorite herbs is sage.  Combining sage with the salty prosciutto and tender veal and you’ve got a winner.  I often make a saltimbocca at home completely omitting the cheese from the equation but with this it worked.  Especially since the prosciutto was perfect and didn’t render the dish overwhelmingly salty.
Attack of the bikers

I was a little delayed in getting back to the tram because on the way I ran into a bunch of bikers.  No not the burly dudes on Harley's kind but a bunch of people on bicycles.  There were tons of them everywhere.  I wasn't sure if it was some type of protest or anything but I've never seen that many people on bicycles in my life.  I was walking along and then all of a sudden there were a couple of thousand people on bicycles.  Some of them were really cool too but I wasn't fast enough with my camera.  Damn those cyclists.

I took the tram back to the hotel to pick up my bags and I made the decision to catch the bus to the train station in order to get back to the airport.  It would save me €40 and it wasn’t a huge hassle.  I did get on the bus going the wrong way at first.  It was at this time that I finally figured out that the signs have all of the stops on both sides of the street.  You have to look for which one has your stop coming up the fastest.
Catacombs, insert wild animals, slaves and gladiators ~2000
years ago



The train ride was pretty quick and I had the added benefit of having an outlet available to me on the train.   It was pretty empty at 10 pm, and it didn’t take me long to get back to the Hilton Airport Hotel to crash.  If I was going to Rome again, I would probably use that hotel since it was easier to access, being connected to the airport itself.  Good 5 minute walk from the train and I was there.  The rooms were also larger than at the Hilton Garden Inn.

Saturday, June 29, 2013

Paris

Waldorf Astoria Trianon Palace
I took the train from London to Paris.  I feel asleep and stayed asleep listening to Diddy Dirty Money's Last Train to Paris.  It only felt appropriate.  I woke up and I had to pee, but I decided to pee after I got off the train since it stopped already.  That turned out to be a decision that cost me  €0.60 since restrooms aren't free at the train station.  Once I got there I met up with a friend of a friend.  Julie helped guide me through the city.  We searched for a while to find a place to drop off my bags for a while and finally decided to end up taking them to my hotel.  I love the city of Paris, but their train ticket system sucks.  The tickets are such tiny and easy to lose pieces of paper.  Combine that with the fact that I’m a tourist trying to keep up with tons of stuff, and you can see why I lost my ticket after the first trip.

Julie went off to work for a bit and I bought another train ticket and headed back to the hotel in order to finish checking in.  I had an awesome deal at the Waldorf Astoria Trianon Palace.  I wanted this to be my
splurge hotel for this part of the trip and I was definitely not disappointed.  It is definitely more of the romantic getaway type of spot but I didn’t mind that at all.

Inside my room at the Waldorf
The Hotel boasts the two Michelin Starred Gordon Ramsey au Trinanon, one which I decided to pass on after seeing I was priced out of even the slightest inclination of eating there due to the meal cost of €180.  I like to spend on a good meal but that is just absurd.

The room wasn’t too large, but it was definitely appropriately comfortable.  You had more than enough space.   Interestingly enough the style was great because it definitely had an old school feel to it with beautiful architecture that seems to be from a few generations ago.  The design of the interior gives a nod towards that timeframe without being passé.
The hotel is just a short walk away from Louis XIV's world famous Chateau de Versailles.  It is about a thirty minute ride into Paris via train or car.  It is a bit of a walk to the train station though.  I was able to manage everything just fine despite having my huge suitcase along with me.

I meet up with Julie later that evening and we walked around for a little bit while I took some pictures.  I had to wait on her for a little bit and while I was waiting I randomly drunk a liter of water.  Combined with the walking I really had to pee.  I was saved by the bathroom in a McDonalds, which you had to get a code for.  Europe is really serious about making sure you aren’t using the bathroom for free.
Later we made our way to Notre Dame and although we did not go inside.  I did get a chance to take a lot of pictures from the outside of the church.  Julie pointed out the back of the church to me which is by far more beautiful than the front.  You really get a chance to appreciate the amazing architecture of the church.
We walked over a bridge where she pointed out there were many locks along the bridge.  It is customary to write the name of your love on a lock and lock it to the bridge and throw the key in the river.  Then you and your lover will be locked in love forever.  The amount of romanticism of the place nearly borders on a sickening level.
Locked in Love Forever
My dinner in Paris would be at La Taverne de la Huchette.  It really wasn’t that memorable of a meal but it was certainly cheap.  Julie was not a foodie and had no idea what to recommend.  She admittedly hates French food.  I had an appetizer, main course, and two drinks all for under $40.  I ended up getting the boeuf bourguignon and potato dauphinoise.  It was tasty but like I said nothing to really brag of.

Afterwards Julie and I went to the Eiffel Tower.  I have a couple of pictures outside at night with the tower lighting up in the background.  We rushed back to the train station so we would not miss our trains.  I unfortunately missed my train.  I ended up with a €40 cab ride back to the hotel.

Julie and I talked about me waking up in the morning and going to see the Chateau de Versailles.  I said yeah of course I’d be up by 8 see the Chateau, do some more touring of Paris.  The next morning I was awakened by the sound of the room service trying to clean the room around 11.  I took a quick shower before checking out and going to see the Chateau.  It was a long walk from the Chateau to Marie-Antoinette's estate.  I hoofed it the entire way to the estate and back up to the Palace.  It was quite a walk but I felt like I needed to work off some calories since most of my time was spent sitting as of late (I
want to tell myself that but I did a lot of walking in Europe.  The real reason was I couldn’t understand how to buy a ticket for the tram thing and am extremely impatient).

Garden at Marie Antionette's Residence
When I got back to the Hotel, to have brunch before I left ate at La Veranda.  It is Gordon Ramsey's other restaurant in the hotel.  Even the €57 I spent there seemed a little steep but it was money well spent.  I started off with the Foie Gras pressed with beef bourguignon.  I really couldn’t get enough foie gras on this trip.  This particular version was very good but I was a little let down by the fact that the beef notes were a little in the background and not at the forefront of the dish.  It was a very subtle beef taste, but the plating was very beautiful.

Scallops at La Veranda
Next up were the scallops.  They were served with an awesome bouillabaisse sauce.  It was so tasty, that I had to resist the urge of picking it up and drinking it from its serving vessel.   The scallops were fresh and cooked perfectly.  You got the perfect amount of saltiness from the bacon and the bouillabaisse that went along with it.  Then there were the vegetables that accompanied it which included mushrooms, marinated artichoke hearts and sun dried tomatoes.  It was a great meal.  My meal made it's way up to €70 once I paid for the bottle of water, glass of wine and coffee, which I thought was complimentary based on the fact that I didn't order it.

Foie Gras at La Veranda
Then I had to hustle in order to make it to the hotel to change in order to make my reservations for dinner that night.  I got on the train and made my way all the way over to Orly airport and took a shuttle to the Hilton Orly where I would be spending the night.  By the time I got there I quickly realized that I would not have enough time to make my dinner reservations.  Combined with all I had done earlier in the day I was just tired of doing pretty much anything.  So I ended up settling with the hotel buffet.  I got a glass of red wine and I left the meal pretty unsatisfied with the mediocre offerings that looked much better than they tasted.  I wish I would have ordered my meal from the a la carte section.

The hotel didn’t have any outlet adapters available so I ended up taking the shuttle to the airport in order to buy a really nice one there.  It cost me €25, but it claimed to be a universal outlet that went from any outlet to any outlet.  It worked fine.  It was a bit of an upcharge too since I could have gotten the same thing off of amazon for $15.  That’s to be expected in an airport though.

I guess Hangover Doesn't translate to French well...
The next morning I checked out of my hotel and made my way to the airport.  My plan was to drop my bags at the airport so I could leave from exploring the city that day and head directly to check in for my flight to Rome late that night.  It was too early for me to check in my bags though, so I left them back at the hotel.  The van driver was extremely nice because he chased me down in order to give me the headphones I had dropped when I exited the vehicle.

I took the train into town and got something to eat while I waited on Julie to meet up with me.  I would eat at Le Triomphe.  This was another huge let down on the trip.  I must say the best thing about the place was the bread which was very tasty.  The prices weren’t bad at all either.  I got the salmon rillettes which really just tasted like a tuna salad gone wrong made with salmon.  I also had the salmon tartare which was a little better but not by much.  It was just bland and uninspired.

I knocked back a few glasses of coffee as I waited on her to get there while inhaling tons of cigarette smoke.  It seems as though everyone smokes in Europe.  When she finally got there we headed to Sacré Coeur.  It is a church that once you arrive at it you can overlook all of the city of Paris.  We made a quiet walk through the church saw the amazing artwork on the inside.  Thought about going into the catacombs but I passed on the idea of paying money to see dead people.

We walked about the streets nearby a bit giving me a chance to buy some souvenirs and I made my way down to the train station.  A quick ride and we were at our next stop.  We headed through a park on our way to the Louvre, but we decided not to go inside because of time.  I got a few pictures outside of the place though.

Chez Flottes was our next stop for no reason other than Julie really had to pee.  So I ended up ordering a cheese plate and we had some wine as well.  Both were pretty amazing.  I guess I just had a series of misses in my food selection, and though I don’t know how good the food was at this place, if I was using that cheese plate as a measuring stick, the bar would be set pretty high.

We ran out of time and I had to head for the airport and she had to go to work.  I ended up eating dinner in the airport and had a pretty great quiche that redeemed French food for me.  I guess I really needed to do some hardcore research before eating in Paris rather than winging it.  I also had an amazing salad there and some macaroons for dessert.

So yeah I have to go back to Paris because there is so much that I didn’t do, like going into the Louvre and seeing the Mona Lisa, or going inside Notre Dame  (though Julie tells me that Sacré Coeur is better), or even eating a crepe for that matter.  I’ll do all of it next time but to be honest a return trip to Paris isn’t exactly at the top of my list.